Five day road trip into Western Ghats from Pune - day 3

There are small streams of water, there are waterfalls and then there is the little known Ozarde Falls.

Related Links: 
Day 1
Day 2 
Day 4 and 5 

Day 3: Satara to Koyna Dam, Ozarde waterfalls, and Murud-Dapoli beach
Distance covered: 188 kms

Lovely eyes! A Large Grey Babbler

Leaving Satara early was important as this was the day of Ganesh Chaturthi. We left early enough with an intent to cross Koyna Dam , Koyna river and eventually head out to one of the many beach towns.

The route to Koyna is via Kashil and Umbraj and we reached the same fairly briskly and spent some time at the large dam and reservoir ensconced over Shivsagar Lake. Truly Maharashtra is a water-rich state! A small diversion from Koyna, was the Ozarde waterfall on a map which we wondered whether to go or not. Eventually we decided to see it through, and how lucky were we.

Ozarde waterfall barely finds a mention on internet compared to the more popular Thoseghar; and I hope it continues to stay clean and a virgin territory for most people.

Driving off towards Ozarde, we passed a couple of smaller waterfalls (Ghadav Ram waterfalls and one other); leading us to believe Ozarde would be similar to these. We persevered and finally reached the same, a sign of desolation was the closed eatery outside the same indicating not much business in that area. Still there were a few other people around.

To reach the falls, however one has to go through a small half an hour trek right in the heart of the jungle amidst dense trees and undergrowth. To compound matters, the steps were slippery to say the least and we had to be quite careful while walking. After a zigzag uphill and downhill, during which the stream from the fall flowed alongside us, we reached Ozarde, some of us grumbling whether this was worth the effort.

Trek through the jungle for reaching Ozarde Falls.

And then we finally reached the falls. There are small streams of water, there are waterfalls and then there is the little known Ozarde Falls.We were quite taken aback on seeing the falls, period!!! 

The stunning Ozarde Waterfalls falling from a height of more than 100 meters maybe.

Ozarde waterfalls was the best thing that happened to us in the entire trip. Imagine how one feels on seeing a sheer gigantic drop of maybe 100 feet right next to you. Yes, this was a plunge waterfall with stunning amounts of water falling with a tremendous force and roaring noise.  We had trekked very near to the base of the same. The water hitting the surface with ferocious intensity at such close quarters causes a lot of mist and we got wet happily off the droplets.

Gazing mesmerized at Ozarde Waterfalls and feeling the water droplets of the thudding water force

Eventually we moved on hitting the main road back on our way towards Kherdi and Chiplun where we stopped for lunch. Our original intent of going to Kashid beach, would have been difficult, so we chose to go to Murud-Dapoli instead.

Dapoli is a town adjacent and the corresponding beach is named Murud beach. We reached Dapoli by around 4pm, and got a resort stay which was decent enough amidst dense trees and a direct access to the beach. The beach itself was a quiet one, albeit not very clean. A typical small town beach, with limited number of people most of whom were fishermen; our only wish was that it could have been cleaner.

Pleasant, quaint Murud-Dapoli beach and the violent waves of Arabian Sea

Star Fish

Following the adage of respecting the sea even more so during monsoons, we spent some at the beach till nightfall and moved back to the resort.

Related Links: 
Day 1
Day 2 
Day 4 and 5 

Map for day 3

Five day road trip into Western Ghats from Pune - day 2

Related links:  
Day 1
Day 3
Day 4 and 5 
 

Day 2: Mahabaleshwar to Satara, Kaas Plateau, Thoseghar waterfalls and back to Satara
Distance: 147 kms

We left Mahabaleshwar early on Thursday, and met our other fellow travellers at Satara. With a full house of six people, all luggage moved upwards with a covering tarpaulin to protect the bags during rain.

Continuing our journey, we stepped forth towards Kaas Plateau. Kaas Plateau is renowned to be the Valley of Flowers for Maharashtra where one can beautiful colourful flowers blooming from the second week of September.

We were two weeks early in our visit, however we still saw a few buds and flowers which left a taste on what it might be cometh full bloom.

Greenery at Kaas Plateau!

What we did see however was absolutely green grasslands on a hill with a stunning view of Kaas Lake. We proceeded on towards Kaas Lake, a pleasantly vast expanse of water amidst the clouds.

Kaas Lake

There is a large waterfall (Vajrai waterfalls) near Kaas lake that we missed seeing due to lack of awareness for the same.

On our way further, we made a brief pitstop at Sajjangad fort, choosing to climb for half an hour to the fort top from where we got a splendid view of the mountains.

More greenery! Almost looks painted

View from Sajjangad Fort. The fort was not much to speak of; but the view is excellent

From Sajjangad Fort

Thereafter, we continued our journey on to Thoseghar falls (going back towards Satara for the same); and reached the same by evening. Near the falls, we got lost while trying to find the same but eventually reached there by around 4pm.

Thoseghar has a small complex indicating different directions for different falls. The waterfall sighting happens across a mountain where the falls are seen and heard roaring down the cliff. The deep gorge in between us and the falls makes for an unreal landscape. There were multiple waterfalls at the same place, couple of them tiered (and falling in stages); while one was a free fall (plunge) from maybe more than 100 feet and making a stunning amount of noise.

Thoseghar Waterfalls
This pic does an injustice to the thudding water from 150 meters or more; and the deep gorge in front of us
which is not well captured.

  After drinking in the falls with our eyes (from the distance of the opposing mountain) we finally reluctantly moved on before it got dark. We also had our first encounter with leeches as one of them happily camped on my neck, but I was fortunate enough to feel it before it had done too much damage.

Given the delay, we were no longer in a position to go on towards Chiplun, and chose to go back to Satara to stay for the night.

Related Links: 
Day 1
Day 3 
Day 4 and 5 

Map for day 2

Five day road trip into Western Ghats from Pune - day 1

Related links:  
Day 2 
Day 3
Day 4 and 5

Waterfalls, greenery, lakes/reservoirs - all in ample abundance!

I will probably run out of adjectives to describe the lush greenery and beautiful waterfalls by the time I end writing this post. There are different types of waterfalls - horsetail waterfalls, multi-step waterfalls, cascade waterfalls, free fall (plunge) waterfalls, tiered waterfalls and many more. We probably saw the lot.

Below described is day 1 of this fabulous trip!

Itinerary: 27th - 31st August, 2014

• Day 1: Pune to Varandha Ghat, Shivtharghal Waterfalls and Mahabaleshwar
• Day 2: Mahabaleshwar to Satara, Kaas Plateau, Thoseghar waterfalls and back to Satara
• Day 3: Satara to Koyna Dam, river, Chiplun, Dapoli
• Day 4: Dapoli to Raigad fort, Kolad
• Day 5: Kolad to Tamhini ghat, Tamhini Waterfalls, Lavasa, Pune

Just for academic purposes, the original plan which we had started out with-
Day 1: Pune to Varandha Ghat, Shivtharghal Waterfalls and Satara
Day 2: Satara to Kaas Plateau, Kaas Lake, Koyna Dam, Chiplun
Day 3: Chiplun to Murud Janjira, Kashid
Day 4: Kashid to Raigad, Kolad
Day 5: Kolad to Tamhini ghat, Tamhini Waterfalls, Lavasa, Pune


Day 1: Pune to Varandha Ghat, Shivtharghal Waterfalls and Mahabaleshwar
Distance covered: 188 kms

  We (six of us in all, out of which three joined us on day 2) entered Pune with a sense of anticipation and not really sure what to expect of our sojourn into Western Ghats. We reached Pune early morning, which is an added advantage as it allows one to start off straight away. Having booked a Xylo (with a friendly driver), we were all set to enter the ghats.

We left towards Satara stopping for breakfast on the way at a Dhaba, and then took a right turn midway for Varandha Ghat. Varandha Ghat is not a specific point but an area in the Western Ghats. We crossed the Nira-Deoghar Dam and were greeted with a vast expanse of shimmering calm water on its reservoir side. Our Xylo went through the multiple twists and turns on the hilly road as we were treated with sights of beautiful lush greenery and dancing streams of water falling off multiple cliffs.

Nira-Deoghar Dam, on the way to Varandha Ghats

We crossed the point marked as Varandha Ghat on the map and continued onwards amidst the greenery. We were greeted with a new waterfall every kilometer or so, in some cases at an even higher frequency. Many of these unnamed beauties are what gives the glow to the entire Western Ghats along with the greenery.

Vast reservoir, and exquisite zig-zag flowing water amidst the hills. On the way to Varandha Ghats.

As we continued, we emerged in a vast opening from wherein we could see around four gigantic waterfalls on the opposing mountain and a deep gorge in between. The exquisiteness of the place needs to be experienced rather than read about.

Varandha Ghats!
This photo doesn't do justice to the actual scenery. Four gigantic waterfalls (two in this pic) streaming down the opposing cliff amidst beautiful lush greenery. Don't be fooled by the smallness of those waterfalls. They were easily 100m tall.

A more closeup view of one of those unnamed giant forces; from a super-zoom camera.

We eventually reached our second destination, Shivtharghal waterfalls after following a treacherously poor road and after passing through a village, we finally reaching a temple through which one could get close up to the powerful stream of falling water known as Shivtharghal.

Shivtharghal Waterfalls. Height: 20-30 meters

There were barely any one else, and the temple keeper, an old lady was surprised asking how came we know about this place. The temple has a cave passing which one can see the waterfall closeup (though the entry to the waterfall was barred shut).

Cave inside the temple, adjacent to Shivtharghal

After Shivtharghal, by which time it was the late hours of afternoon, we had to decide where to stay overnight. Choosing between Satara ( a typical city), and Mahabaleshwar was a fairly easy decision to make as we headed towards Mahabaleshwar.

Mahabaleshwar, not originally on our scheduled trip list is a beautiful hill station meant to be visited post monsoons. We passed through the clouds as we visited the heavenly hill station of Mahabaleshwar. However, we didn't intend to visit any of the points; and just stopped over for the night.

Lush green!

Through the clouds! Mahabaleshwar.

Persistent rainfall and a tyre puncture notwithstanding, we thoroughly enjoyed our day having got a glimpse of everything that we most craved for in a single day itself - greenery, mountains, waterfalls and the like.

Related links: 
Day 2 
Day 3
Day 4 and 5

Map for day 1

Birds at Microsoft Campus - Part 2

Read part 1 here.


Last week a flock of Painted Storks were kind enough to grace our campus. They camped on the big boulders near the ISB fence easily visible in large numbers from Building 3.

There are also still around the rocks near Boulder Hills and probably many more are camped inside ISB which has a larger tree cover.

Painted Storks, though have been spotted in Hyderabad are not really natives of this place. Most likely, these birds are on their way to a more habitable place (like Guntur) and may have stopped over temporarily on spotting the inviting greenery.

[Click on any pic to view enlarged, as a slide show]

About to fly whilst the others watch

A full family of more than 10 or so Painted Storks

A stray peacock feather spotted enroute trying to get close to the Storks

Nataraj pose

What is it that there are observing with such attentiveness!

Scratching its neck

The entire flock took off in unison circling the Microsoft Campus and eventually settling someplace else

Amidst all the effort of capturing those birds; got an opportunity to watch rainfall and dense clouds over a distant building.
This is through the glass windows of the building.

Related links: Birds, butterflies and nature at Microsoft Campus

Ghonchu and the ghost car

Ghonchu walked confidently in the night. He was returning home alone and didn't have money for an auto. Walking in a slightly isolated and dark section of the road, he put on a brave face and kept telling himself that he didn't believe in spooky things like ghosts and witches and dolls like Annabelle.

He looked left and right, saw no floating women in white saris and continued with renewed vigour. He still had some distance to go before reaching home.

In the utter darkness, his brisk walk and brave demeanour was disturbed by lights. Lights of an approaching vehicle. Traffic on that road was not unusual even at this unearthly hour and he felt more comfortable and confident about lack of ghosts. Ghonchu was never too concerned about thieves and robbers since he never had any money anyways. It was only the unearthly beings that worried him!

However his relief on seeing car lights was soon cut short. He observed that the car was moving in a zigzag pattern. It seemed the driver had lost all control of the car. The car weaved its way like a drunken person, groaning and creaking left and right with headlights on, bumping into the divider and finally stopped only after a head-on collision with a tree along the side of the road.

Ghonchu started forward with concern to see if the car passengers had got badly injured before he saw something that made his blood run cold.

There was nobody in the car. 

All he saw was a doll hanging in the dashboard constantly revolving and staring eerily at him. 

In his knowledge, ghosts had not been known to drive cars, but one never knew when they might indulge in new whims or fancies. 

Ghonchu wanted to run. His face was petrified in shock. However, when cars are seen moving without drivers and all they contain are miniature dolls, feet get stuck in quicksand and blood circulation stops. Despite his best attempts, Ghonchu couldn't run.

 
Whilst Ghonchu stood stuck in glue, he now observed a new menace. He could see a shape coming from behind the car in darkness. That shape seemed to half limp and half run.

Ghonchu's feet had resigned from their duties. However Ghonchu's brain was still partly functional. He began to recite Hanuman Chalisa, "Jai Hanuman gyan gun sagar, jai kapasi tihu lok ujagar." Then he cursed himself for never having learnt more than that.

The shape turned into a human covered with blood on his face. But was that a human or a ghost who had returned to haunt him? Ghonchu watched blood dripping from the shape's cheek.

Ghonchu now understood everything. This man must have died on this very road and his tormented soul had come back to haunt passing folks. The doll must be his accomplice. Ghonchu accepted that today his end was nigh. He waited as the ghost continued to approach him.

When the ghost reached sufficiently close, Ghonchu screamed in a panic-stricken voice filled with desperation, "Hooooosh".

The ghost replied with an air of puzzlement, "Hain?"

Ghonchu paused on realizing the ghost was speaking.

The ghost continued, "Bhau, madad kardo. Paan thookne ke liye gaadi ka darwaza khola tha, roadwa pe speed breaker aa gaya, aur main bahar gir gaya."
(Please help me. I opened the door of my moving car to spit paan, however encountered a speed breaker on the road at that moment due to which I fell off the car.)

When ghosts speak Bihari and chew paan, blood circulation tends to come back and glue from under the feet dries off.

Ghonchu turned in disgust and continued walking towards his home.

[Thanks to Saurabh for the idea of this story.]

Birding in Leh, Ladakh

A six day trip to Leh, Ladakh was a long enough time to attempt and capture a few Himalayan birds. Many of these were visible at multiple places; some however were less common.

Many of these are also found at lower altitudes.

Birds at Leh, Nubra Valley-

There were a few birds we spotted at Leh; and many at our stay in Nubra Valley. With plenty of apricot trees, a river stream flowing right through our camp, plenty of birds had also made their homes at the same venue.

Common Blackbird
An extremely common bird (looks like a crow, but no streak of grey; and has a yellow beak). This was seen in large numbers in Leh and other areas.

Black Redstart female
A beautiful bird, spotted in some numbers in Nubra valley. This one was kind enough to pose perfectly.

Spotted Dove
Also seen were the Himalayan Pigeon (no pic)

The Red-fronted Serin or Fire-fronted Serin
A prize catch, and not so common bird, but was spotted in few numbers again in Nubra Valley, Hunder

Brown Accentor?
Not completely sure of ID, a small bird found in large numbers at Nubra Valley

Black-billed Magpie
A beautiful bird which exposes its bluish tinge only while flying; a very common bird in Leh and nearby areas.

A male Black Redstart.
Found hobnobbing with his female counterpart in Hunder, Nubra Valley

Robin Accentor
A lovely bird seen near Chang La

Spotted near Chang La enroute to Pangong

Spotted near Chang La enroute to Pangong

Birds at Pangong Lake-

Pangong Lake was a treasure trove with birds flying and swimming alike with delight in the crystal-blue water. Whilst there are a lot more smaller birds in and around the same which I just got a glimpse of, I could capture only the common ones.

A brown headed gull in flight
The most common bird around Pangong Lake. These beauties were spotted in large numbers near the lake either flying or swimming as in the next pic.

Brown headed Gull

A fleet of Common Mergansers, swimming in chilled Pangong

On your marks, get set, go!!
A whole bunch of birds basking in the morning sun at one corner of the lake.
Too far to make out, but seem to be gulls mainly and other duck species.

Common Merganser

Species spotted-

• Rock Pigeon
• Hill Pigeon
• Spotted Dove
• Common Blackbird
• Black-billed Magpie
• Sparrow
• Mynas
• Robin Accentor
• Brown Accentor
• Desert Whitear
• Common Hoopoe
• Black Redstart (male and female)
• Red-fronted Serin or Fire-fronted Serin
• Brown headed Gull
• Great Crested Grebe
• Common Merganser

Related links -
A six day trip to Leh, Ladakh