Related links
ManeBhanjang –
Jaubari – Tumling – Kalipokhri – Sandakphu – Sabarkum – Phalut – Gorkhey - Sepi
25th-31st December 2016
Prologue –
I stand tall.
Unflinching, in the face of heavy snow and strong winds. I look down upon
menacingly all around me. I miss nothing. There is none who can match me. There
is none who dare conquer me. I am to be respected. I am the Khang-Chen-Dzog-Nga
(Kangchenjunga).
Why would one spend a lot of flight money to go to a remote
and less popular corner in the Himalayas and embark on a trek to a barely
pronounceable mountain no one has ever heard of?
Day 0 – Jaubari (Mane
Bhanjang)
I woke up in the middle of the night. 4.30am. It is cold!
Chilly, biting cold and we haven’t started off from base camp yet. Slowly, with
lots of effort, I convince myself to go back to sleep.
I woke up. 4.30am. I
feel fresh from a full night of sleep and feel ready to embark on another
journey. Yoo-hoo, the mountains are beckoning again!
Day 1 – Jaubari to Tumling
The backpack is heavy and the road is steep. A lethargic
body is taken aback as it tries to get accustomed to new circumstances. It is
chilly and cloudy. A stoppage for tea is very welcome and our numbed hands grab
hold of that steaming tea cup. Ahh, simple pleasures indeed!
 |
| A bird chirping in the cloudy mist |
 |
| Rhododendron buds. Will be in full bloom in April. |
Snow!
First sight of snow as we stop for lunch. Shivering, yet
excited we run outside for selfies as the ground turns white. It snowed only
for a brief while, but it left the mountainside with the impression of being
covered in little balls of cotton or dove feathers. As it so happened, that was
the only snowfall we experienced on the mountains.
 |
| Fresh snow on the trail! |
We reach our tea house in the evening walking across India
and Nepal at free will. We are welcomed with a wonderful hot soup. Absolutely,
no idea what is it; but don’t care. Hot, to wrap your hands around – that’s all
that matters.
We have dinner and a round of games. Our trek leader, Geet
is very, very good in taking care, following up on medical issues and giving
good sound advice. It feels warm in the tea hut with the soup and a great
dinner – a simple serving of dal, sabji and rice, yet all the tastier in the
hills.
The day ends early on the hills and we go to bed by
9-9.30pm.
I started to walk with
a song on my lips and nary a worry. The mountains beckoned welcomingly as we
climb. My fellow strugglers walk along carrying their ridiculously heavy
backpacks. I encourage and cajole them to move forward.
We get through the day
and reach Tumling. It is time to get to work. Amidst all the hullabaloo of more
than three trek groups and hundred people; quickly, efficiently the four of us
prepare a significant portion of soup, enough to keep our people warm. I watch
with satisfaction as each of them grab a hot cup with shivering hands.
With not much time on
my hands, I start to boil the water again as we get repeated requests for hot
water. Its time for dinner and cold is the main hindrance. I continuously keep
the fire running and prepare dinner. I eat to my heart’s fill once everyone is
done. It’s time for gossip and preparation for the next day. I drop off by
10.30-11pm.
Day 2 – Tumling to
Kalipokhri
The first sight of Kanchenjunga on a clear cold morning
brought with it a whiff of fresh excitement. The quaint thought that entered my
mind as I looked at gigantic Sleeping Buddha with the towering Kachenjunga in
its belly – what if the Buddha woke up?
 |
The famous Sleeping Buddha! Kanchenjunga is the belly and the topmost peak in this picture.
The Buddha stayed with us all throughout the trek visible on almost every day. |
It is a beautiful sight, one that you never tire of; even
though we saw the same on subsequent days. The first ray of sunlight, as it
falls on the Buddha with its silhouette – half in the shade whilst the snow-clad
peaks glisten is a sight that needs to be seen to be believed.
We walk through the dense forest that is Singalila National
Park. We hear stories of the dwindling red panda and search for one but in
vain.
The sunset at Kalapokhri at the end of second day was surreal.
Layers of clouds and mountains mingling with each other with nary a difference.
A mixture of warm colors on a canvas!
 |
| Sunset at Kaliphokhri |
Kanchenjunga! I have been seeing her since the
age of five. As far as I can remember, it was omnipresent as I grew up. I
remember telling her about my troubles, about my fight with my father, about
the girl I liked in school and what-nots. Kanchenjunga was my diary. She never
said anything, but just listened. That’s what I liked about her.
Now, with an aging
beard, I still gazed at her with respect. I looked around at everyone clicking
pictures and smiled. I walked on.
Day 3 – Kalipokhri to
Sandakphu
Everest –
No comments! Just that – Everest! The greatest of them all!
Mysterious, shrouded in cloud, flanked by her army of peaks on
all sides; she had an aura of invincibility! At the back, yet indifferent of
attention, knowing no one else can steal her thunder!
-
 |
Everest is the third peak from the right (in the background)
Flanked in Makalu, Lhotse and Nutse in front, and Chomling on the left. |
 |
| Everest! Mysterious and almost always covered by clouds. This was one rare moment when it wasn't. |
 |
| The two giant ranges. The face and partial belly of Sleeping Buddha on the right; and the Everest range on the left. |
Makalu and Lhotse – mountains we normally are not aware of.
But when spotted, we see the trio of peaks in the distance. It feels
unbelievable to be even looking at the highest mountain peaks in the world.
We summit today. Everything feels comfortable as long as the
days are warm. The climb was steep but we managed. It feels like we have
accomplished something.
I stand atop the tallest peak in West Bengal! Sandakphu!
We learn to pitch tents and attempt to do so. Bumbling and stumbling,
we manage to pitch something. The trek guide and co-guides come by and correct
our mistakes. We make something of a home and try and snuggle inside it.
 |
| Tents in the morning sun at Sandakphu |
Evening!
Outside the tent, it is cold. It is very cold. Mind-numbing, freezing cold. The
chilly wind not only tingles my spine but the entire body. I can’t feel my
hands inside woolen gloves. I can’t feel my feet inside woolen socks. We walk
around like zombies. We rush for warm soup and a lovely dinner which has now
become routine and something we have now come to expect.
Nightfall!
The tent is shaking. The wind is roaring and screaming in its frigid, shrieking
voice. It brutally tears into the tents as though it would turn us over. But the
tents stay strong. We survive. Once can only visualize how cold it would be
without shelter.
I get up in the middle of the night. I want to pee. But I
can’t. I can’t sleep but I won’t dare to go outside. Even the thought of that night
of biting, screeching wind like a wild beast tangled in a net gives me the
shivers.
The tents were warm enough, truth be said; but the wind was
scary. And we were at 12000 feet. I can’t even imagine what happens in winters
at higher altitudes without shelter. Of course, it gets colder, but try
explaining that to someone who stays in Hyderabad at 30 degrees for most of the
year.
As routine, I wake up
at 4.30am. All trekkers are fast asleep. This is my time to reflect and think.
It dawns again. And we begin to hear the twittering trekkers.
Everest! I bow to
Everest. The mountains are to be respected. I scan over the entire range of
towering mountains and wonder for the umpteenth time, about the beauty of these
giants.
We summit today.
And then we pitch
tents. Fix zips that are not working, correct mistakes by trekkers pitching a
tent for the first time, do a little bit of here and there everywhere as the
trekkers huddle in the cold. I smile. The tents are pitched and everyone can
now sleep peacefully.
Day 4 – Sandakphu to
Sabarkum
Another cold day. We get up in our tents shivering and are
served a cup of tea in the tent. Five-star hotel service can’t beat this. The
water bottle which had a little water and was kept outside the tent has frozen
overnight. The sunrise is beautiful (again) as we click photos and then scamper
off for breakfast and hot water in a jiffy.
 |
| I am taller than Everest!! |
 |
| Ohh, you wish!! |
The trek starts as we descent and then ascent again.
We meet army outposts along the way. They welcome any change
in scenery and are willing to talk. What do we ask them? When do you see your
families next? Or what kind of nutritious food do you get?
We camp at Sabarkum. Another peaceful little village with
chilly cold winds.
We pitch tents again, with little more proficiency than
yesterday. Post dinner, we look at the amazingly clear starry sky and enjoy
identifying the different constellations (and spot shooting stars). We do this every
evening, but not for too long, only till the cold gets to us.
Sleep tight, huddle inside the warm sleeping bag, and drop off!
 |
| Milky way on the backdrop of trekkers hut at Sandakphu. Pic credit: Hrishikesh Baruah |
 |
Starry sky! The milky way is faintly visible.
This pic was taken at Gorkhey. Sandakphu and Sabarkum skies were even clearer. |
|
4.30am. I enjoy
getting up under the stars. It is lovely weather. A little wind but that’s ok. We
start our routine again. Heat the water (it takes more time at this altitude)
and get breakfast ready. Serve tea in the tents something which brought a smile
on the trekkers’ faces. I love to see people smile.
They run off shivering
for breakfast to the tea-hut without unpitching their tents so we do that. It
takes time, but we get it done anyway.
Everyone, by now is
used to the trek. They walk briskly and do well. They also pitch the tents
better with lesser help.
Day 5 and 6 – Sabarkum
to Gorkhey via Phalut. Gorkhey to Sepi.
Phalut! Another peak and another climb. This is the closest
we ever get to Kanchenjunga and Everest and we soak in those peaks with our
eyes and cameras for one last time.
 |
| Sleeping Buddha again! I never get tired of seeing it! |
 |
| One of the many trails visible as we look back at what we accomplished! |
It is much more pleasant now. We descend through forest. Sometimes
it is difficult to slow down while descending. The knees begin to ache and the
toes hit the shoes every time we take a step. The double socks and walking with
heel first - tips from our trek guide help a lot.
The forest is dense with deep cover. Some of these trees
have not seen sunlight for ages. We search for red pandas and leopards and
instead encounter a wild yak on a narrow path. We reached Gorkhey, our last
camp site right at the end of the forest.
Gorkhey is the prettiest little village right in a valley
amidst tall mountains covered with dense forest cover and running river.
Exactly that picture which we used to draw in our childhoods.
The beauty of this little pristine village is preserved since it has no motorable roads and one needs to trek a few kms to reach this place.
 |
| Gorkhey. Pic credit: Hrishikesh Baruah |
We had a good time there with exotic dishes like pasta. And
a much more comfortable time with the cold.
The last day is always about getting back to town. It is a bitter-sweet feeling; as we run
and prance about like excited puppies, excited about seeing back civilization; yet at the same time feeling like we are leaving a part of ourselves behind, with the hills.
We completed our trek by 2pm and bade a fond farewell to our
trek guide and co-guides! Adiey, till we meet again!
The last day is always
about goodbyes. I feel sad to bid farewell once more to so many new friendships
created over the last seven days. I hope they continue to visit the mountains.
I hope they tell all their friends about mountains and their beauty. I hope
they remember me once in a while. I smile, hug and wish everyone farewell as I
stand where I belong – with my old friend, the Khang-Chen-Dzog-Nga.
Epilogue
Why do we trek?
To meet new people and make new friends? Maybe. To get away from our
helter-skelter daily routine and madness? Probably! (Yes, indeed the mountains
slow time.) To boast about stories like “you know I went to the highest peak of
West Bengal and saw Kanchenjunga and Everest from up close”. Definitely!
This post is a dedication to all trek guides and co-guides.
They work tirelessly behind the scenes to ensure that every trek goes smooth
for all of us. As one of my fellow trekkers rightly put, “it is a humbling experience to watch them go about their tasks every
day and there is so much that we can learn from them”.
Thanks to Indiahikes for organizing this trek flawlessly
making sure that all of us trekkers had a good time along the way.
 |
From left to right ->
Geet, our fantastic, knowledgeable and amazing trek guide,
Sanghey ji, as we all came to fondly call him, brought up the front in our trek,
Gopal, brought up the rear,
Chirrin, the ever-smiling horse man,
Subhash (or Subba dadu), the one who stayed in the middle of the group |
 |
| The trekkers. Pic credit: Hrishikesh Baruah |
